"I like Deep Purple...and the beach boys"- Carlos

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Dear Readers...tonight for the first tme we come to you from an internet cafe. We have arrived in the small town of Ollantaytambo. But the journey to it is the real story.

We left our hotel in Cusco after a good night's sleep (thanks to cough medicine and Tylenol PM on Dad's plate. We woke in a frenzy though because we were late getting down to breakfast. We packed up and ran downstairs to grab a bite to eat. We finished our hectic breakfast and met our guide for the day, Carlos in our hotel.

Dad and I in front of the Sacred Valley

Carlos bagan our whirlwind tour by taking us through Cusco out to the Sacred Valley. The Sacred Valley is located a little north of Cusco. It is mainly agricultural but holds some of the most amazing ruins in Peru. It is also the gateway to the mother of all ruins: Macchu Picchu. On the way out of town Carlos pulled over to let us watch a guy bungee jump. From there we blazed through the countryside. Carlos would pull off every so often to show us something new or let us take a picture. His english was fairly good but still lacking which made for a fun day. He pulled over and showed us the Andes mountain range. He explained that how 2 years ago, the Andes were covered in ice, glaciers in fact. Now there are only a few snowcapped peaks left, the effects of Global warming.

The Andes behind us.

We moved on to the town of Chinchero. This is a small town know for its textile market. We pulled in and everyone seemed to know "papa Carlos". He took us through the main square where we played some music with a local merchant. (Dad and I played some sort of percussion instument made out of hoofs or beaks or something). Then we went into the church of Chincheros. Yet again we learned that when the Spanish came into Peru they destroyed the Inka's temples, only to use the stones to build their own churches on top. This church had frescoes on the cielings. We then went out back to what was remaining of the Inka ruins. It was beautiful and built right into the hillside. Then Carlos made us run across the field with him so we could see what it was like to breathe at that elevation. Yea...thanks Carlos. We tried some local potatoes (which tasted of rocks), learned that during the time of the Inkas there were over 3,000 different types of potatoes and even learned the process of textile weaving. We were taken back into a pueblo where a girl showed us how first they take a root that they grind up (on a cheese grater) and it turns into soap. They clean the wool, spin it and begin making the dyes. The dyes are all made out of natural elements (insects, plants, minerals, roots and even salt.) It was pretty amazing and something we wouldnt have seen without Papa Carlos.

She smashed some bugs off of that cactus behind her to make the red. Add salt and you get orange.

From there Carlos took us to the salt mines of Maras. These mines are cascading pools with little toughs bringing the water (which comes from a thermal spring in the nearby mountains) down into various levels of pools. This was something taht was used by the Inkas. There were around 2500 little holes that deposit the water into the pools. It was very interesting. After 28 days, the water evaporates leaving salt. This salt is not exported. It is used only in Cusco and the surrounding areas.

The Salt flats at Maras

After this Carlos took us to Moray. Moray is made up of 14 cocentric circles all elading down into the earth. It created 14 different terraces. These terrances were used for biological and agricultural laboratories. At one point the Inka's had over 300 types of Orchids grown there. They say that the temperature drops 5 degrees for every terrance you descend.

Moray

In the meantime, everywhere we drive through the valley is showing us the real Peru. It is all agricultural areas, really country. Donkeys carrying corn on the side of the road, dogs running amuck and 4 wheeling in Carlos' little car (it was smaller than a taurus. lets just leave it at that.)

Check out the kid. Dad wanted a ride. Luckily the child locks were on.

Carlos found a spot for lunch in Urumbamba, the last town before the city we arestaying in tonight, Ollantaytambo. It was an Andian buffet. And it was delicious. We ate several types of potato, alpaca, chicken, rice pudding with purple corn syrup, flan and the most delicious soup we had ever had. It was delicious.

From there Carlos brought us up to Ollantaytambo. He had put on music earlier, and i think it was music he thought we liked. When we asked him he said "I like Deep Purple and the Beach Boys". As we were flying past the base of the Andes mountains and countryside the soothing sounds of "Hotel California" came on his radio. It was quite an existential experience for me: Here listening to a song that I have listened to so many times in the States, but now listening to it in Peru. Listening to it while passing other cars on the wrong side of the road. Listening to it while whizzing past glaciers. But there was no where in the world I would rather be. It was one of those moments you know you are gonna look back on in time and remember forever. And it was so simple. It was perfect.

We pulled into Ollantaytambo (which cant even really be called a town) just aroudn 4:30. The "town" is one small square with restaurants and internet cafes. Its the smallest town we've ever been in; smaller than Dixon or Los Gatos. I'm talkin small. So we turned down this small road and came to the train station. The streets arent even cobblestone, but rocks. There are motorcars (or as Carlos called them 'taxis del Cholos´). They are basically a mix between a motorcycle and a rickshaw. We hope we can get one back to our hotel :) As we got closer to the station Carlos found that the street leading to our hotel (which is actually on the train platform..something we knew before hand. dont worry) was closed. After arguing with the cops for 10 minutes (smart move Carlos) he decided to park the car and we walked our bags toward the hotel. We had to go through the station to get to our hotel. We checked in and now found out that our bags are too big to take to Macchu Picchu. So now we will leave them at our hotel and go up only with our backpacks.

Ollantaytambo...pretty much all of it.

Our hotel is comfortable, simple but enough. There are hammocks in the back and a game where you try to throw golden coins into corresponding holes, or a frog's mouth (la rana). Dad killed me but whatever. Now we are on the lookout for somewhere to eat dinner then will go back to the hotel to rest before our big day tomorrow. We leave on the train to Macchu Picchu at 7:45 am. I cant wait. With that said we must be going. Today was definitely a good day.

Attention readers: We REALLY appreciate all of your comments. We wish you were all here with us too...but sorry we cant replay to you all. But know that we are reading them and thinking of you all. We appreciate hearing from you. It's nice to come on the computer and read some english for a change :) Keep commenting!! We love logging in everyday to see who's reading!