Monday, June 23, 2008

Dancing in the streets

Dear readers, tonight we are on a time crunch. The masses have descended upon Cusco. It is the night before the Inti Raymi festival and it seems as if the population of Cusco has doubled, or even tripled.



We started this morning by sleeping in for the first time on our trip. This day was very South American. We took everything at our own pace. Dad woke up twitching so I figured the coca was out of his system. So we needed to get him more pronto. We walked up to San Blas, the artisan neighborhood, and found the store we had been searching for: The Coca Shop. They had everything here: coca leaf, coca candy, coca chocolate, coca toffee, coca cookies, coca brownies and even coca ice cream (the ice cream kinda looked like a turd in a cone, but who am i to judge). We bought a few things (and dad tried some samples...) and were on our merry, or in dad's case very merry, way. Now his mission is to ship it out of the country. My mission is not to be involved.


coca must stunt your growth. look at that door...

We started the morning at the Cathedral. The cathedral is the main focal point in Cusco, it is the most important part of the Plaza del Armas. The Cathedral is actually made up of three different churches. Each more elaborate than the next. My favorite was the main church. It is still used today; Mass is held at 6am and 10am every day. The walls of the main church are filled with miniature shrines devoted to various saints. But unfortunately no photos were allowed in the church (that doesnt mean dad didnt try...again. but this time they didnt come out) There was a special choir loft with individual seats carved out of wood for each member. It was hands down the most beautiful church I have ever seen (but LMU's is a close second). The next portion of the cathedral even had some underground catacombs holding the remains of prominent Inka and Spanish leaders of Cusco.

After we left the Cathedral, we made our way to the Museo del Inka. This museum is home to many artifacts that have been excavated from around Peru. It even had 8 mummies, which kind of freaked me out but whatev. The Inkas were amazing people. Not only did they build homes and buildings that were earthquake proof but had tweezers all the way back in 400 a.c.

From there we decided we needed a really good lunch. Of course this meant going to the store to buy some rolls, salami, chips and 2 crush sodas. Hands down, best lunch we've had. While going to get a refill on my crush dad bought a tamale for 50 centimos, or US$0.15. He says it was delish. We left after lunch to explore the town.

There was yet again another festival in the Plaza so we watched for a while but we made our way to Calle del Sol, a main avenue off the Plaza. This is where the real party was. It was wall to wall locals, selling everything you could think of. Off the streets! There were ladies frying eggs, french fries and meats right on the street. And fresh squeezed juices from ladies who peeled the fruit on the spot. Dad scored a shish kabob from a woman cooking on the street and followed it up with some fresh pineapple. yum! The smells and colors are something that can never be described.



carne on a stick. what kind? who knows.

We went to dinner at this place in the Plaza del Armas called Inka Grill. It was the best dinner we have had yet! Dad had a pisco sour and fettucinne with proscuitto, and I had a club sandwich. superb. We walked around the Plaza some more just watching the amazing sights around us. We decided to head back to the real party on Calle del Sol. There were so many people; it was like a concert, with everyone pushing and cramped together. There were firecrackers going off and the smell of fried eggs and fruits in the air. Men with megaphones put on sugar cane poles yelling "chocolates, 50 centavos" while the man next to him yells into his own pole "50 centavos chocolate", but both are considerate enough to take turns.



The people here have been welcoming and friendly so far. Whenever we seem to have trouble someone is there to help us out with spanish words, directions or making room on a bench. They are filled with a pride I have never observed anywhere else and are true to their roots. It's moving to see customs that have survived not only decades, but millenia.

Tomorrow is the day that will top it all off. The festival of Inti Rymi. It is the day the Inka's pay homage to the father sun, the pachapapa. We will join thousands (200,000 approx) at the ancient fortress of Sacsayhuman up in the hills of Cusco, and we will all be connected by the events we will witness. I may not understand the language but everyone will understand the sentiment in the air. I cant wait. And with that we wish you a good night.

Adios!